In cities, approximately 80% of the population lives in separate apartments, in the villages the vast majority has separate houses, the same - in garden plots. On average, 280 kWh of electricity is consumed per person inside the apartment per year for lighting and household appliances. For a family in an apartment with an electric stove, this value increases to 900 kWh.

Studies have shown that up to 20% of the electricity consumed by residents is wasted. Everyone will bend down for a coin on the sidewalk, and the loss of hundreds and thousands of rubles goes unnoticed. In Moscow, it is enough to turn off one light bulb in each apartment for at least 1 hour, and this will be enough to illuminate a whole small town during the day.

In the event of a burnout of an electric lamp in a lamp in any place of the apartment, to replace it, the choice of a lamp from the available ones must necessarily begin with checking the marking. It is impossible to guess about the qualities of the lamp by the dimensions of the bulb, the shape and size of the filament, etc. Why? Yes, because not checking the marking means risking the integrity of your eyes, face, hands.

Marking on modern domestic lamps not of the "Mignon" type is applied in a circular fashion along the dome of the bulb as follows: "125-135 V 25 W 1-81; 230-240 V 100 W I-87". The inscription can be in three lines: 25 W 230-240 V or 127 1171 III 85 The numbers with the letters "B" determine the voltage of the electric current in the wires of your apartment.

There are fewer and fewer houses with a voltage of 127 V, but they are also in Moscow. Therefore, 127 V and 220 V light bulbs are usually sold in stores, and they can be confused when selling. In addition, in apartments that have been switched from 127 V to 220 V in recent years, 127 V lamps, etc. may remain. For a 127 V lamp screwed into a cartridge to which a voltage of 220 V is applied, the filament may not just burn out.

Often the flask itself explodes and shatters into small fragments. To select lamps in the store, use the recommendations of manufacturers. You will never see them, because only one instruction is put into a box packed with 10 lamps at the factory. And who buys a box of lamps right away? The instructions say: "If you have to change the lamps more than once a year, then you have an increased or unstable voltage in your apartment."

Indeed, especially in the autumn-winter period of the year from 7 to 9 and from 17.00 to 21.00 on weekdays, the greatest consumption of electricity. Power plants are unable to cope with the peak load, and the voltage drops. This leads to damage to the lamps, and they are no longer able to shine for the prescribed 1000 hours. Therefore, during these hours, try to minimize your electricity consumption. For example, in the morning it is not necessary to wake up in the morning, so immediately “turn on” the TV in the room, the three-program radio in the kitchen, which is generally not turned off day or night, and besides, the light still flashes throughout the apartment to make it more convenient to move around. haste.

In Germany, you can see posters: "When you turn off a burning electric light bulb in vain, you thereby light a fire at the same time, but only in the right place." It is generally difficult for a German resident to understand why there is light in a room if there is no light in it ... Usually, during non-peak periods, the voltage in the wires of our apartment, as well as in the power grid, is higher than 127 V or 220 V. Therefore, the factory instructions say: "With normal mains voltage, use lamps marked 215-225 V, 125-135 V, 220-230 V. If these lamps ... often burn out, buy lamps marked 235-245 V." It should be clear that lamps marked 125-135 V are only for a 127 V mains.

"If incandescent lamps last more than two years, it means that they burn with undercooking and their operation is not effective. In this case, use lamps designed for a lower voltage." This means that if the voltage fluctuations in the network reach 220-230 V, but an electric lamp marked 235-245 V is screwed in, then its thread will heat up to a lower temperature, which will lead to less light output.

Here it is necessary to approach the explanation of the second most important parameter in the marking of the lamp - power. It is measured in watts, or watts for short. The greater the number of W indicated on the dome of the bulb, the greater the lamp should have a light output, i.e. the brighter it should burn. So it will be if the voltage in the network is within the limits indicated in the marking of the lamp. And if a lamp marked "220-230 V 100 W" is used in an electrical network with 127 V, then its luminous efficiency will be approximately equal to the lamp "125-135 V 40 W" due to underheating of the thread. Sometimes this is done in hard-to-reach places, and the lamp lasts not 1000 hours, but 2-3 times more.

However, in accessible places, the use of lamps with an overestimated rated voltage makes it necessary to choose lamps with a higher power. And in stores you can only find lamps of such power: 25 W, 40 W, 60 W, 75 W, 100 W. What factors should be guided by when installing a lamp in a particular place in an apartment? Sometimes they ask: "Turn any!" This is not true, because the light bulb itself and its operation will be expensive. Let me take a toilet as an example, because its dimensions in multi-storey buildings have hardly changed over the past 100 years. If its walls are whitewashed and the lower part of the walls is lined with white tiles, then 25 watts is enough. But if you do not wipe the light bulb and the ceiling from dust, then 40 watts will be required. Cover the walls with photographs, magazine prints, empty cigarette boxes, or use dark colored tiles and you need 60 watts.

Much depends on the position of the lamp, but it is usually placed directly above the door. The use of colored shades of pendant lights on brackets, as a rule, also causes the need for a larger power bulb. However, all instructions for fixtures prohibit the use of lamps with a power of more than 60 watts, and in some made in Yugoslavia, more than 40 watts. What caused it? Long gone are the days when the bottom and body of the cartridge were stamped from brass, the inserts and the rim were made of ceramics in lamps. Now the cartridges in them are made of plastic.

We should not forget that the efficiency of an incandescent lamp is only 3-5%, i.e. the rest is released mainly as heat. If a 100 W lamp is screwed into a plastic cartridge and the bulb of the lamp is turned down due to the device or the installation of the lamp in such a way, then all the heat will rush to the cartridge. It will start to burn, and you need to notice it in time, otherwise a fire is possible. I'm not talking about the fact that the lamp is disabled. This means that with the bulb of the lamp facing down, it is allowed to use no more than 40 watts in the lamp.

When the lamp bulb is up, it is possible to use 100 W, especially in the absence of a closed ceiling. When the lamp bulb is positioned horizontally in the lamp, 60 watts is quite applicable. In a short article, of course, it is impossible to consider all cases, but I would also like to note that the hotter it is in the room, the less power you use lamps and for the necessary illumination, go along the path of increasing the number of lamps. Without detailing, I can advise in the bathroom, with the obligatory presence of closed shades, to use a ceiling lamp with a 40 W or 60 W light bulb and a mirror lamp with a 40 W light bulb. Be sure to install chandeliers in the rooms for general light. Such a chandelier should have 2-3 switches so that you can selectively turn on the lamps.

At the same time, there should be "local" lamps in the room, in which the direction of light can be changed. It is also important that the light does not hurt the eyes, which is possible with an opaque ceiling. By the way, in this case, the light is less scattered and lamps of 25 W and 40 W are quite usable. When leaving the room, you can leave this lamp burning, and not necessarily the chandelier.

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