Laser-iron technology for the manufacture of printed circuit boards. Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering

Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering / Ham Radio Technologies

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The original method of significantly reducing the time spent on the manufacture of a printed circuit board.

I recall with horror how, before buying a laser printer, I assembled the circuit I liked, or didn’t assemble it, because, having estimated how long it would take to lay out the board on a sheet of paper, and then painting it all with a drawing pen with paint on getinax, I often refused such an undertaking. LUT is not simple, but very simple, the lion's share of the time spent on manufacturing a printed circuit board has sunk into oblivion. Now it is enough to run the board layout program, add details to it, trace and print the finished result.

So, we begin to make the scheme you like, from the monsters of the breeders you can use Accel Eda, or the simple Sprint-Layout program, as you like, depending on the complexity of the board.

Let's start with printing, we need not ordinary paper, but glossy - glossy, color advertising is well suited, supplied in abundance by mailbox peddlers. You can use fax paper or inkjet photo paper. Covers from magazines for my printer turned out to be thick, the toner does not hold well. The first option is the cheapest and fastest available. Not on all laser printers all this can work out, there seemed to be no complaints about the HP series, one of which I use.

In the case of a two-sided board, we print the bottom side and the front side in a mirror image.

We fold both halves and combine all the holes in the light from the lamp, then with a stapler we put a couple of brackets on the edge of the sheet, connecting the sandwich. We take an old iron, for a new one you can get a hat from home, and set the temperature to silk. While the iron is heating, we treat the surface of the getinax with zero, in conclusion, do not forget to degrease with technical or some other alcohol. Although you can do without alcohol, if you first etch the board a little in a solution of ferric chloride, and then dry the board with a hairdryer, at the same time warming up a little getinaks. The last option is relevant if you have 0.1mm tracks.

We put the getinax blank in the middle of the printed sandwich, and we place all this under a couple of pages of the newspaper laid on the desktop, that is, we put it in the newspaper. Not very hard, press down on top with a hot iron for one minute, turn the sandwich over and heat the other half for the same amount. We pull out our design from the newspaper, and again, without pressing hard, with the edge of the iron we achieve the appearance of a printed pattern on the paper, both on the front and on the reverse side.

It should turn out something like this.

Then we carry it all into the bathroom and with warm water, using a toothbrush, remove the paper from the getinaks. If the temperature and time are chosen correctly, then the tracks will not blur or fall off, as everything will depend on the specific type of toner and printer.

It remains to put the workpiece in a solution of ferric chloride and bleed off the unnecessary, you can significantly speed up the process when using a brush with which we process the surface of the board, it is very convenient to leave very thin tracks with it at the end of etching to prevent etching along the edges. That is, we process with a brush what we want to remove first.

With the same zero, we tear off the toner from the copper, and immediately cover the workpiece with a solution of alcohol rosin. We impregnate the braid from the shielded cable with tin and rosin, and pressing the braid with a soldering iron, we service all the tracks. Then we cut off the unnecessary along the contour and drill holes. Since the drills are always blunt at hand, it is better to drill to avoid bulges on the surface of the contact pads to the middle of the getinax on one side, and making through holes on the other.

We connect the vias with a tinned hair from a multi-core wire, soldering it from the front side and leaving it to hang out on the other. When installing parts, we wrap this free end around the output of the part and solder everything together. All that remains for us is to stuff the parts and solder them, having received the finished device. Using the PonyProg programmer as an example:

Author: Ewmenenko Yuri; Publication: cxem.net

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