Deep metal detector. Scheme, description

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ENCYCLOPEDIA OF RADIO ELECTRONICS AND ELECTRICAL ENGINEERING
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Deep metal detector. Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering

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Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering / Indicators, detectors, metal detectors

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Deep metal detectors include devices that allow you to "pull" into the ground to a depth of more than 40 cm in order to detect large metal objects. In this publication, as well as in the previous one, the electronic software of the device is not considered. To anyone who may be interested in this, I recommend the book by Osipov and Shadrin "Metal Detectors".

Structurally, deep metal detectors can be divided into two types. In the first one, the magnetic anomaly sensor and the meter are combined in one housing, and in the second one, the inductors are separated. Below, the attention of interested readers is proposed to the design of the device of the second type (with spaced sensor and emitter), which allows searching for large metal objects and ignoring small ones lying on the surface.

As an experiment, a line of similar structures was made with a "base" between the sensor and the emitter up to two meters. As an example, a design with a nominal base of 1200 mm is given. Other sizes are fundamentally no different from the above. As can be seen from the drawings, the metal detector device is very simple and affordable for even beginner DIYers.

Deep two-sensor metal detector (click to enlarge): 1 - sensor, 2 - electronic control unit; 3 - handle; 4 - main rib (plywood, s8), 5 - emitter; 6 - stiffener (plywood, s8,2 pcs.); 7 - power supply; 8 - beam (linden, circle 60), 9 - working drive of the sensor and emitter; 10 - fastening of the ribs (screws 4x90, as required)

The materials used are not scarce and inexpensive. For the frames of the sensor and emitter, stiffeners and the main rib, plywood 8 mm thick is required, the beam can be made of wooden round timber (preferably from linden), thin (3 - 5 mm) foam plastic, ordinary fabric and nitro paint. To fix the structural elements, you will need screws and waterproof glue (or epoxy). Production is carried out using a minimum set of hand tools, which is sure to be found in the arsenal of any home workshop.

To begin with, we prepare all the necessary details according to the drawings. In order to facilitate the ribs, we cut out curly holes of arbitrary shape - the main thing is to maintain the necessary strength and rigidity of the entire structure. In the main rib from the bottom in the center, we cut out an additional rectangular groove for the power supply. In the frames of the sensor and emitter, we select a semicircular chute in a circle. This can be done on a grinder or, in the absence of such, manually with a file of the appropriate section.

Depth metal detector
Sensor: 1 - outer insulation (fabric covered with nitro enamel), 2 - working wire of the sensor and emitter; 3 - frame (plywood, s8); 4 - upper and lower disks of internal insulation (foam, s3 - 5)

We begin the assembly of the structure with the installation and fixing of the ribs; on top of the ridge of the beam we mount the main rib, and at an angle of 120 ° - stiffeners. This can be done in two ways. The first one is simpler: on the beam, at the places where the ribs are installed, carefully remove flats 8–10 mm wide with a planer or file and glue the ribs to them with subsequent additional fastening with screws. The second option is a little more complicated, but it provides a stronger and more rigid connection of parts in the beam in the same places and at the same angles we cut shallow (8 - 10 mm) grooves 8 mm wide and already install ribs on them with glue. You can make grooves by milling (if possible), on a circular saw or manually with a chisel (the latter option is more laborious and requires a certain skill). As you can see, each option has its advantages and disadvantages - it's up to you to choose.

Next - the sensor and the emitter On the plywood frame in a circle in a groove on the varnish we wind the working wire (which and how much is a separate conversation and is not considered in this work), we lay foam circles on top and bottom for thermal insulation, wrap the entire structure with a cloth and cover with nitro enamel. We fasten the sensor with screws to the beam console, and the other to the rear end.

Next, install the control unit, power supply and carry out the final adjustment.

Everything - the device is ready to work. Happy searching!

Author: S.A.Kotov

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