5-meter homemade wind generator. Part 2. Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering

Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering / Alternative energy sources

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The tail length of the wind generator is 2.5 meters. The hinge axis of the tail is made of a thick-walled pipe with a diameter of approximately 45 mm. The reciprocal part of the hinge (on which the tail slides) is made of a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm with a slot.

In the picture above, the tail section of the windmill is in its normal (unfolded) position.

We folded the tail and measured the gap between the wind turbine's swivel mechanism and the tail to make a steel "bumper" that was welded to the tail of the wind turbine. This bumper serves to protect the blades of the windmill when the tail folds in strong winds. When the "bumper" is welded, all metal work is completed!

I painted the frame, tail and rotors with primer and acrylic paint with my old HVLP spray gun.

I painted the frame in dark green, in my opinion it looks very even ... And I painted the rotors in yellow.

The picture above shows a template (shape) for the stator. It is for the correct positioning of the coils. In the center of the circle is a bolt to hold the lid in place when pouring the epoxy. Around the template - along the edges, we will use 4 clamps. The template turned out to be 500 mm in diameter and 15 mm thick. The circle in the center of the stator will be 180 mm in diameter.

The stator consists of 12 coils. The picture shows that they are located very closely and the sides of the coils touch each other. The rotor magnets will be located above the coil holes. The weight of each coil is about 550 g. The coils are wound with two copper wires with a cross section of 1.65 mm2, but it could be wound with one wire with a cross section of 3.3 mm2. Each coil contains 68 turns of wire giving 48 volts at 75 rpm. The mass of copper in the stator is about 7.2 kg. There are 4 coils for 3 magnets, which gives us a simple connection scheme to get 3 phases from the generator. Each rotor contains 16 magnets. It is interesting to compare the weight of the magnets and the weight of the copper windings. This wind generator turned out magnets for 11 kg, copper windings for 7.2 kg. On small wind turbines (about 3 meters), we got about 3 kg of magnets and the same weight of copper windings. With an increase in the diameter of the wind generator, its mass increases significantly, since a more powerful generator is required in low-speed mode. Therefore, the larger the wind wheel, the heavier and more expensive the spare parts for it. For example, on this wind generator, only the cost of copper wire and magnets turned out to be about 700 bucks.

Each phase includes 4 coils connected in series. I placed the coils on the template, in their positions and trimmed the leads. Then, using a gas burner, he removed the varnish from the ends of the wires and walked over them with sandpaper.

The ends of the coils were cut to size and soldered to each other, after putting on a heat shrink tube.

After everything was soldered, I positioned all the coils on the template and secured them with plumbing tape.

I then cut out small squares from the fiberglass and glued them onto spools with superglue to hold them together. This will make the non-epoxy stator very strong and I can pull the coils out of the template.

Next, I removed all the tape and connected the alternator windings in a star connection.

The next step is to cast the coils in the template using polyester resin. When working with polyester, be sure to wear a respirator, because. it's very toxic! The first pouring step is waxing the wooden mold, for this I used car wax. Then I smeared a little polyester on the bottom and sides of the form.

Next, I laid down a layer of fiberglass to make the stator very strong and filled this layer with polyester resin. Then I took the coils that were previously fastened together and laid them in a mold. Then I mixed polyester resin with talcum powder and poured the spool mold with this composition. I put a layer of fiberglass on top and smeared it with polyester. Care must be taken to ensure that air bubbles do not form. After, I covered the form with a lid and pulled it with clamps. If everything is done correctly and following the instructions for using polyester resin, then it will take 2-4 hours to cure. It's better to leave it overnight.

Rotors are a little easier to make. We wrap it with tape on the outside and make an "island" of plywood for the inner hole (200 mm). I pressed the inner circle into the steel base very tightly so that the resin would not leak out when pouring. We fill it using the same technology as the stator: we mix the resin with talc and fill it. And one more thing - each rotor contains 16 very powerful magnets, if you try to connect the rotors together and your finger is between them, then for sure you will be left without a finger. Therefore, be extremely careful when working with the rotors, it is better to put them away from each other.

Next, in the stator, we drill six 12 mm holes in a circle in order to further attach it to 6 brackets. When marking, make sure that the holes do not fall into the coils. Holes should be located between them.

I also drilled three holes with a diameter of 9 mm and installed brass bolts in them - these will be the contacts for connection. After all the holes were drilled, I installed six studs in the stator. Please note that all iron parts near the rotor must be made of stainless steel. Otherwise, the rotor will attract the studs to itself, which will create a magnetic flux and in the future it will be difficult to start the windmill in a weak wind, as well as its balancing.

That. it remains to make the blades and tail of the wind generator.

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Author: Koltykov A.V.; Publication: cxem.net

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