Installation of car speakers in the doors of the passenger compartment. Part 2. Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering

Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering / Speakers

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Problem

...became apparent as soon as I removed the interior door panels on my antique Sierra. By this time, the picture of the elegant integration of the speakers into the surface of the door upholstery melted into consciousness like a morning mist. In the atmosphere cleared of illusions, it became clear that the only place where the speaker could be placed without interfering with the operation of the power window is occupied by quite important, judging by the appearance, details of the internal structure of the door.

In general: out of about 70 mm that I would need to drown the speaker inside the door, I had a maximum of 10 - 15 millimeters at my disposal, enclosed between the door upholstery and the inner panel. The rest had to inevitably hang outside the volume of the door.

Solution

.... it came when I read some article on the net, where it was proposed to use a fabric impregnated with polymer resin instead of car putty, traditional for American handicrafts, where it was necessary to give the speaker cabinets the required elegance of form. I decided to go a little further and give this homegrown composite material the function of structural elements, and not just external cosmetics.

Then events began to unfold like this.

First, I made three templates from thin cardboard:

The first repeated the contours of the speaker's protective grille

The second was cut out according to the shape and size of the platform on the door upholstery, where the future structure could be placed without interference.

Finally, the third one was some full-size volumetric replica of the speaker to test the "passability" of the speaker in the volume intended for it.

According to the first two templates, the front and back panels of the future cases were cut out of solid 6 mm plywood, and then, using wooden inserts and hot glue (Glue gun), they were assembled into such skeletons. Different lengths of the inserts provided the required (by design) angle of inclination of the axes of the speakers in the vertical and horizontal planes. The two designs, of course, were mirror images of each other.

Using the third template, it was checked at all stages that the magnet would not protrude below the base (bottom) panel more than allowed.

When everything seemed to fall into place, "skin buildup" began on the finished bones. The raw material for this high-tech product was a knitted T-shirt, rejected on the grounds of wear and tear by someone at home. Pieces of fabric were stretched over krakas and fastened with buttons on the underside.

The stretched fabric takes the form of the surface of the smallest area, for the most part - double curvature, which will further increase the rigidity of the shell. By the way, the fact that, so to speak, the chintz turned out to be cheerful, helped to monitor the uniform tension of the fabric. The material is quite elastic. Therefore, with some luck, folds can be avoided altogether. In this case, one cherished one could not be avoided, but there are no problems - it was puttied with one easy movement in the subsequent stages.

Then, as expected, the fabric was impregnated with epoxy resin (regular EAF glue, sold anywhere and everywhere). It is better to impregnate from the inside - then it will be clear from the resin that has appeared on the outer surface that the fabric has been completely saturated. It is necessary to impregnate everything except the surface above the hole for the speaker (there you will still need to cut a hole there), but be sure to capture the edges where the fabric lies on the plywood frame - then the whole thing will merge into one monolithic structure.

When everything is saturated, the resulting masterpieces should be postponed until the resin has completely cured (in real life - until the next evening). The next day, when you come home from work (presumably, you have it, otherwise the front acoustics in the car is not your main problem. However, we digress.) You will already find quite hard shells. However, it is advisable to re-pitch the resin and reinforce the surface on the inside, so as not to spoil the perfect shape, with one or two layers of fiberglass. After that, it will turn out, in terms of rigidity, a shaped armadillo.

Further clear: putty, sand and paint. It is a simple matter, and most importantly - pleasant, because of the visibility of the results. Immediately before installing the cases on the upholstery, holes must be cut in the latter so that the internal volume of the cases communicates freely with the interior of the doors. The body-upholstery junction is sealed as God sent and as a result, an acoustic environment is created for the speakers, corresponding to the "infinite baffle" model, which is what most 5-6 inch drivers on the market require. The result is on your screen.

Those who are familiar with the Sierras of ancient years will notice that the pocket on the door upholstery had to be shortened by 150 millimeters, cutting a piece in the middle and welding the remaining two parts with a simple Soviet soldering iron.

Afterword

The described undertaking was carried out in the spring of 1996. At the same time, approximately, a resident of sunny Finland named Juha Touminen was poring over a new installation in his Ford Thunderbird. Since he fairly regularly shared his successes with the inhabitants of hyperspace, I found that he used approximately the same technology, but he took ladies' tights as a textile base (probably San Pelegrino - strong as true feelings), and then laid the fiberglass on the outside, which is technologically simpler , but requires more labor-intensive finishing afterwards.

Author: Andrey Elyutin; Publication: avtozvuk.com

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