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ENCYCLOPEDIA OF RADIO ELECTRONICS AND ELECTRICAL ENGINEERING
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Installation of car speakers in the doors of the passenger compartment. Part 1. Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering

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Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering / Speakers

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Formulation of the problem

The task was set simply - to preserve the design of doors and the volume of pockets as much as possible. Then I spotted in the magazine "Avtozvuk" an article about the installation of acoustics in the BMW E46, which took one of the first places in the competition. I liked the design and I decided to depict something similar (figure us, beautiful women, think of some kind of "M-Style" with a budget of 10 pieces, we also don't slurp bast shoes).

Materials

I remembered that 15-18 years ago I was an aircraft modeler and decided to go the thorny path of building podiums from composite materials, in other words, from fiberglass. Fiberglass models are generally made in two ways - by gluing according to a form previously made from the same fiberglass (that is, first they make a model, glue it with fiberglass, then the model is removed and the product is glued along the inner surface of the mold) or simply by gluing a certain core. The first method is more correct and the only one if we are engaged in mass production of exactly the same products, the second is much simpler. I went the second way (I will open a factory for the production of podiums for the Fiat Tipo later). And this is how I went:

Long road in the dunes

  1. Materials
    1. Fiberglass - bought on the construction market (cheap, but hard to find and the quality is so-so) or in a store for aircraft modelers (Volokolamskoe shosse, 60) - more expensive, but better quality and there is a choice. I recommend fiberglass of two types - 0.25 and 0.06. 0.25 is used for strength elements, it is difficult to impregnate, but the strength of the resulting composite is beyond praise. 0.06 is used in those places where 0.25 lays down with difficulty or does not lay down at all (corners, kinks, and so on). In addition, if you are going to paint podiums (it's fashionable now), then 0.06 is required as the last, outer layer - it gives a smooth surface. For podiums like those that I made - both types are more than enough for a meter.
    2. Carbon fiber (carbon tape LUP-0.1) - optional, but very, very desirable. It gives the structure extreme rigidity, which makes it resistant to being beaten by the feet and other organs of the musculoskeletal system of primates. Buy a meter for 35r for both podiums and you won't regret it. In the same store for aircraft modellers.
    3. Epoxy. Well it is clear. Three packs of 280g. Any hardware store or market.
    4. Polyurethane foam type Macroflex or similar. One vial (750 ml). in any construction market.
    5. Styrofoam pieces - I used the packaging from the Clarion head unit.
    6. Polyester putty with fiberglass. Banks in 200gr. quite enough. Where to buy - mainly shops for motorists, auto chemical goods, etc. It happens in many different ways, I highly recommend the Polish Novol, cheaper and better than the vaunted American Bondo. Easier to handle, easier to lay, and so on. I bought Novol at an auto parts store next to 1000 Melochey on Leninsky Prospekt (Gagarin Square).
    7. Vinyl or other finishing material. Well, it's to taste. You need to choose according to thickness and ductility, the more complex your shape, the more expensive it will be to buy vinyl. If the toad crushes to buy car vinyl, then when choosing a regular finish, make sure that it stretches along both axes (knit lining). I used DLS vinyl. Best choice, but it costs a fair amount of money.
  2. Tools
    1. The most important tool is the so-called razor knife, a knife with a retractable blade corner. You can see it in one of the photos. I used two of these - one wide for most work, from Stanley and a narrow one from a stationery set. Buy Stanley or another branded one - Chinese crafts for 5r apiece break at once. I highly recommend looking for one in which the blade extends not from a plastic case, but from a metal holder with a plastic handle (my Stanley is just like that) and with a twisting latch.
    2. Rubber gloves for working with epoxy. Any hardware store. Medical gloves are better, but they tear more often - buy a package right away.
    3. Spatula(s). It is advisable to have several - soft rubber for puttying, smoothing fiberglass, etc., narrow metal (about 5-7 centimeters wide), and a set of used credit cards. Credit cards are the most popular option for a spatula, stock up on several at once. Spatulas are taken in the construction market, credit cards - well, whoever has it, who is in the savings bank, and who is in Chase Manhattan. I used SBS-Agro cards (and what else can they be used for now?) and a large number of phone cards. I don’t know which ones are better, Visa Gold is not a damn thing better (but not worse) than Visa Electron, and France Telecom cards are completely similar to MGTS cards (we can do it at the level of the best Western models when we want). The main thing is more, so that it was not a pity to throw it away.
    4. Sandpaper of varying degrees of sanding. The most running - rough. If you cover with vinyl or something else, then only it is needed. Plus a bar for her, I just used parquet.
    5. Adhesive for vinyl. I used V&S Spray Adhesive 185, $10 per bottle. For vinyl, it is not very recommended, they say (and it is written on it), there is a special glue, but I was too lazy to look for it.
    6. SuperGlue, colloquially cyanocrine, medically known as MK-8, is sold around every corner in miniature tubes. Needed for gluing the same vinyl, since glue 185 is something like Moment in an aerosol can and stretches. Use SuperGlue for a tight hold around the edges.
    7. Construction / industrial hair dryer or heat gun. It differs from my wife's hair dryer in that you can light a cigarette from it :-) Needed for laying vinyl.

Well, now the process itself in photos

Here are the materials. Golden is Kevlar, SVM. I didn't use it on the runways. Goes now on a box for a subwoofer. The white fabric is fiberglass, and the black tape is the same LUP-0.1. Beautiful, is not it?

Installation of car speakers in the doors of the passenger compartment

We take the door pocket, cardboard speaker mock-up, and the mounting ring from the speaker kit. We apply this to each other until the desired relative position is obtained. We use a cardboard layout to prove that the speaker will fit where it is needed. I made some more cardboard templates for easier orientation in space.

Installation of car speakers in the doors of the passenger compartment

We use some kind of glue (PVA for example), screws and pieces of foam to secure the structure. We drag it into the car, apply it to the door and make sure that the turn angles of the speakers are exactly the way we wanted. We measure the reference points with a ruler and a caliper (in order to subsequently restore the position of the adjusting ring relative to the pocket) - we also have a second podium, it is desirable to make it close in shape to the first.

Installation of car speakers in the doors of the passenger compartment

We cut a hole in the pocket for the speaker and make sure with the help of a cardboard template that everything is in order. This is a photo from the second podium, so the back template is no longer there, the eye has developed.

Installation of car speakers in the doors of the passenger compartment

It's the same attached to the door trim.

Installation of car speakers in the doors of the passenger compartment

Pour to hell with dog macroflex. Macroflex reluctantly freezes in a large volume, so it is advisable to pour it in several steps, laying it in layers of a couple of centimeters. A heartbreaking sight.

Installation of car speakers in the doors of the passenger compartment

We cut the resulting workpiece with a knife and work with a sandpaper.

Installation of car speakers in the doors of the passenger compartment

It's the same, but bigger. Please note that the speaker mounting ring is removed, I glued it later, after a strong composite shell had formed and everything was ready for vinyl wrapping. To make it easier to remove, I smeared the ring with an automobile polish made in the GDR (there was such a country, they say) - in other words, with wax mastic. And then he poked it with a knife and carefully dug it out.

Installation of car speakers in the doors of the passenger compartment

We are convinced that "you are going to go with a gavil doggo, comrades!"

Installation of car speakers in the doors of the passenger compartment

And now we cut the fiberglass into strips about 5 centimeters wide, dilute the epoxy and go ahead. Before laying, the strips must be tried on in place dry, estimate the length and location. Then impregnate the strips with epoxy (laying on a hard, flat surface with effort to smear the epoxy until the fiberglass becomes transparent), lubricate the macroflex with epoxy and apply with a slight overlap. The first layer should be laid with coarse fiberglass and allowed to dry. After hardening, sand, otherwise all protrusions and influxes will only intensify. Then we put the second and third layers of thin fiberglass, alternating with a layer of strips of carbon tape. The carbon tape should lie along, forming, as it were, a shell around the speaker. Layers of fiberglass should be laid at an angle to each other.

Installation of car speakers in the doors of the passenger compartment

Some intermediate stage, fitting. The black stripe on top is carbon tape. First of all, she needs to strengthen those places where the hind limbs of primates can reach.

Installation of car speakers in the doors of the passenger compartment

After obtaining the desired rigidity of the structure, we skin and putty. The jar at the top is the same Novol. Again we skin and putty again. And so on until you get bored or until the desired result is achieved.

Installation of car speakers in the doors of the passenger compartment

We cut off the vinyl, cover the underside of the vinyl and the surface of the podium with glue-spray (gray-red balloon), let it dry, take a heat gun and lay the vinyl. It is better to first practice on cats, for example, covering an ashtray (it looks cool, by the way). If the surface is large (I covered the entire pocket), it is better to glue gradually. You need to start with the most convex part, not allowing the vinyl to warp too much. Don't overheat the vinyl and glue, it's best to keep the temperature lower and heat longer, otherwise the glue doesn't adhere well and the vinyl loses its gloss.

Installation of car speakers in the doors of the passenger compartment

And here it is, the golden key. Now all the same hemorrhoids, for the second time. There are two podiums. The second time will be easier.

Installation of car speakers in the doors of the passenger compartment

Author: Kirill Pertsev, Autosound; Publication: avtozvuk.com

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