Shoe creams are turpentine and water. simple recipes

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FACTORY TECHNOLOGIES AT HOME - SIMPLE RECIPES
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Shoe creams are turpentine and water. Simple recipes and tips

Factory technologies - simple recipes

Directory / Factory technology at home - simple recipes

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Shoe creams can be divided into two groups: turpentine and water.

I. Turpentine creams

It must be borne in mind that the production of turpentine creams poses some fire hazards, especially when open fire is used. There should always be a lid under the worker’s hands to tightly close the pan in case the turpentine catches fire. There should always be an old carpet under the worker’s feet in order to extinguish the fire in time. Eyes should be protected with goggles. Smoking or lighting matches in the room where turpentine is being worked is not allowed. In case of burns, you should always have bicarbonate of soda on hand, which is applied in a thick layer to the burn.

The work does not require special utensils: a cast-iron enameled cauldron with a lid is sufficient. You should have separate dishes for different colors of cream. It is also necessary to have a Celsius thermometer, i.e. with divisions from 0 to 100°. The required amount of oleic acid is poured into the cauldron (see below) and the required amount of aniline dye (black or colored), soluble in fats, is dissolved in it. When the paint has dissolved, put the strained mixture of waxes into the cauldron and, stirring, melt, while monitoring with a thermometer so that the temperature of the molten mass does not rise above 95 °C and does not fall below 90 °C. Then, if melting occurs on a primus stove, then, having first extinguished the fire, add the required amount of turpentine in a thin stream, stirring thoroughly all the time. If melting occurred on the stove, then you need to remove the boiler from the stove.

The temperature of the mass must be such that after adding turpentine it is not lower than 40 °C and not higher than 50 °C. It is necessary to ensure that the temperature of the mixture is not lower than 40 °C, since such a mass, poured into cans, will not have a good pattern. Warming up the cooled mixture will not improve the situation, and therefore you need to first find out on a small test what the temperature will be after adding turpentine, and in certain cases (especially in winter) it is better to warm up the turpentine by placing the bottle in hot water. The turpentine temperature should be about 20-30 °C in winter, and 10-15 °C in summer.

Turpentine cream is usually poured into jars or flat tins. The lids of both must be tightly fitted so that the turpentine cannot evaporate. In handicraft workshops they usually pour using a small saucepan with a spout, in large productions - with special bottling machines. To prevent the cream from cooling below 40°C during operation, place the pan with the cream in a bowl of hot water (50°C). The room temperature should be about 15 °C, then the cooling of the cream in the tins is better and a more beautiful surface of the cream is obtained.

Some varieties of cream have a characteristic pattern in the form of ring-shaped or zigzag lines running from the edges of the tin to the center. They are formed only if the creams contain the best quality materials, such as carnauba wax. Even a small amount of carnauba wax in the ointment can cause this characteristic pattern on the surface of the cream. For this purpose, arrange a flow of air to the cream poured into tins, fanning the ointment with a fan.

Below are several recipes for turpentine creams. It depends on the experience of the master to select such a mixture of waxes in order to obtain the best quality and at the same time the cheapest ointment.

Here are some tried and tested recipes for turpentine shoe polishes:

1st recipe:

30 parts carnauba wax;
15 parts paraffin (48-50 °C);
105 parts of turpentine;
3 parts oleic or stearic acid;
2 1/4 parts aniline paint

2st recipe:

5 parts carnauba wax;
5 parts yellow beeswax;
5 parts of Japanese wax;
17 parts of paraffin;
68 parts of turpentine;
1,5 parts oleic or stearic acid;
1 part aniline paint.

3st recipe:

5 parts carnauba wax;
12 parts candelilla wax;
10 parts of paraffin;
65 parts of turpentine;
1,5 parts of oleic acid;
1 part aniline paint.

4st recipe:

8 parts carnauba wax;
8 parts candelilla wax;
12 parts of paraffin;
68 parts of turpentine;
1,5 parts of oleic acid;
1 part aniline paint.

5st recipe:

30 parts shellac wax;
15 parts of paraffin;
105 parts of turpentine;
3 1/4 parts oleic acid;
2 parts aniline paint.

6st recipe:

10 parts shellac wax;
20 parts of paraffin;
60 parts of turpentine;
1,5 parts of oleic acid;
1,5 parts of aniline paint;

7st recipe:

10 parts of ceresin;
5 parts of spermaceti;
30 parts of turpentine;
1 part aniline paint.

Aniline dyes, as you know, are available in two grades: fat-soluble and water- and alcohol-soluble. For turpentine creams, only aniline dyes, soluble in fats, are used, and for aqueous creams, aniline dyes, soluble in water, are used.

For black creams, the most commonly used are nigrosin WLA, WL, KS and C. For yellow creams, methanil yellow, orange II, yellow II, autol orange, persian yellow, persian brown. By mixing these colors you can get any shade.

Colored turpentine creams are prepared in the same way as black ones, with the only difference being that the materials for colored creams are lighter and purer.

For white creams, use zinc white of the best quality, and to destroy yellowness, add a little ultramarine (blue for linen).

II. Water creams They differ from turpentine ones in that the solvent in them is not turpentine, but water. When preparing aqueous creams for saponification of waxes, potash is used. To prepare aqueous ointments in an artisanal way, no special utensils are required. You can work in an ordinary enamel boiler on a primus stove or on a stove. Since this method does not use turpentine, the work is completely safe in terms of fire.

Place the wax mixture into the cauldron and melt it, stirring thoroughly. To prevent the wax from burning, the temperature should not be higher than 95° C. A 10% potash solution is poured into another cauldron and, when the dissolved potash boils, it is gradually added to the molten wax thoroughly, stirring. If you pour in a lot of potash at once, a lot of foam will rise in the boiler, which can come out over the edge. In this case, you should spray it with water and the foam will quickly settle. The mixture is heated until it becomes homogeneous. In the remaining water, which must be added to the wax, aniline dye, which is soluble in water, is dissolved. Finally, the paint solution is added to the hot, washed-off wax, mixed thoroughly and poured into tin boxes.

Here are two tried and tested water cream recipes.

1st recipe:

4 parts carnauba or shellac wax
16 parts of beeswax;
3 parts potash;
4 parts of aniline paint;
100 parts of water.

2- recipe:

16 parts carnauba wax;
6 parts of Japanese wax;
3,5 parts potash;
4 parts of aniline paint;
120 parts of water.

Colored creams are prepared in the same way, only instead of black aniline paint, nigrosin WLA, WL; for yellow creams, yellow extra methanil is used, orange on; for brown creams - GM brown havanna, etc.

Water-based shoe polishes are much cheaper than turpentine ones, and their preparation is much safer in terms of fire safety. Well-prepared aqueous creams are just as good for cleaning shoes as turpentine creams. They also have the advantage that they do not smell of turpentine. It is better to pour colored aqueous creams into glass containers, as the color of the ointment may change in tins.

III. Mixed creams

There is also a third type of cream - mixed creams, which are wax saponified with potash, then diluted with turpentine.

Here is the recipe for this cream:

4 parts carnauba wax;
16 parts of beeswax;
3 parts potash;
2 parts of aniline paint;
60 parts of water;
30 parts of turpentine.

IV. Liquid creams

Liquid shoe creams or dressings are colored aqueous, alkaline solutions of shellac that are applied to the leather with a brush or sponge and which dry to a superior gloss.

The container in which the dressing is prepared must be copper or well-tinned; Under no circumstances should the solution come into contact with iron. The dressing should also not be stored in tins, since when combined with iron, shellac will separate from the solution in the form of flakes. The water used to prepare the dressing should not be hard, but it is better to use distilled water. The dressing is prepared as follows: potash is dissolved in a copper cauldron, then shellac is gradually added to the boiling solution. Saponification occurs quickly, and when all the shellac has dissolved, the shellac wax is allowed to cool and float to the surface. The wax is removed by filtering or simply removed with a spoon. This wax, of course, should not be thrown away; it can be used to prepare turpentine and water creams (see above). Then add the required amount of water-soluble aniline paint to the still hot solution and stir thoroughly until the paint disperses. Since the dressing can become moldy during long-term storage, it is useful to add a small amount of formaldehyde.

The dressing is poured into glass bottles, and a sponge is attached to the stopper using copper (not iron) wire, with which the dressing is spread on the shoes.

Here are some tried and tested finishes:

1 recipe:

10 pieces of shellac;
2 parts potash;
2 parts nigrosine;
100 parts of water.

2st recipe:

68 pieces of shellac;
15 pieces of borax;
10 parts of nigrosine;
400 parts of water.

3st recipe:

20 pieces of shellac;
8 parts of ammonia;
4 parts nigrosine;
120 parts of water;
50 parts castor oil soap.

Author: Korolev V.A.

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