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Huangshan mountains. Nature miracle

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In traditional Chinese painting, there is an ancient direction. called "Mountains and Waters". A good example is the XNUMXth-century artist Fang Kuan's painting Travelers Among Mountains and Streams.


Fang Kuan "Travelers among mountains and streams"

One of the most characteristic works in this style is Fishing in a Mountain Stream. It was written on silk by master Xu Daoning in the distant XNUMXth century. A majestic picture of mountains rising from the water unfolds before the viewer. Distant peaks melt in the haze. It takes a long time to look for tiny figurines of fishermen - the image of mountain steeps is so large-scale. The picture resembles a panorama, which can be obtained using a modern computer program that can "splice" several shots of one series into a single whole. From one point, such breathtaking views will not open. The artist looks at the mountains not from below, but from somewhere in the air. It seems that he is flying on a hang glider. Although the picture is almost monochromatic - transitions of light brown and gray tones predominate - it makes a very strong impression.


Xu Daoning "Fishing in a mountain stream"

Art critics say that this is not a real landscape, but a generalized image of nature. Even more than that - its spiritual essence, which allows you to break away from the real earth and soar in spirit up to heaven. It is no coincidence that there is so much air and space in the landscapes of the "Mountains and Water" style.

The most famous Chinese poet of the XNUMXth century, Tao Yuan-ming, wrote about the influence of the expanse of nature on the human condition:

Dash into the distance with your soul,
And the earth will go away by itself.

About three centuries later, another famous Chinese poet, Li Po, very accurately conveyed his impressions of sky-high peaks:

Temple on top of the mountain
I spend the night on a mountain top in an abandoned temple.
I can touch the twinkling stars with my hand.
I'm afraid to speak loudly: with earthly words
I do not dare to disturb the rest of the inhabitants of the sky.

When you read these lines, it seems that there are no such majestic mountains in nature, that they were created by the poet's imagination. In fact, they exist. Ego carved by the glacier of the Huangshan Mountains. They are located in the eastern part of China in the south of Anhui Province.

These mountains are not the highest in the world. The height of their three main peaks does not even reach two kilometers above sea level. However, when fog falls in the valleys, the peaks of the Huangshan range rise from the milky haze like dark giants. When you look at them from the observation deck of the cliff, it seems that you are floating somewhere very high in the sky. Separate rock masses have almost vertical walls. Although they do not challenge climbers, this feature also adds expression to the overall picture. The peaks seem impregnable. Their scale allows you to appreciate the pine trees that cling to the rocks with their roots at a dizzying height.

The Huangshan Mountains are full of legends. They say that in the old days Taoist monks lived here, who, thanks to many years of spiritual practice, acquired the ability to rise into the air. The very name of the mountains is associated with the name of the semi-mythical "Yellow Emperor" Huang-di. Here, in these mountains, three thousand years before our era, he was looking for herbs to make the elixir of immortality. They say he succeeded...

The path to the beauty of the Huangshan Mountains usually begins in the village of Tankou. Tour buses arrive here from the nearest major city. By the way, it is also called Huangshan. You can climb the funicular to the tops in 10-15 minutes. However, it is better to go on foot. It's not about saving money. The road to the top, with its steps carved in places in the rocks and dips, fenced off from the path by ropes and suspiciously unreliable wooden railings, is an adventure in itself. It lasts several hours and leaves a lasting impression. Before each majestic panorama, you want to freeze and sit for a long time, absorbing this beauty.

Here, involuntarily, the famous lines of Li Bo are recalled:

I look at the mountains, and the mountains look at me,
And we look for a long time, not bothering each other ...

The classic route through the mountains includes visiting the most famous peaks. This is Lotus Peak. Peak of Light and Peak of Heavenly Capital. On the Fresh Breeze Terrace you can watch the sunrise. Despite the vagaries of the weather, this area is always crowded before dawn. In the western part of the upper area of ​​Huangshan is the so-called "Flying Rock". It is shaped like an inverted pear. It is completely incomprehensible how she stands without falling. The most desperate daredevils rise to its top. Tired of the descents and ascents, you can relax in the hot springs. They are at the foot of Purple Cloud Peak. The water temperature does not depend on the season - it is always around 40-45 C.

One of the peaks of Huangshan is called "Awakening Faith". The road to it is fenced with chains. Thousands of metal locks hang on them. This is how the Chinese, in the truest sense of the word, record both their impressions of the mountains and their faith in the right values ​​on the path of life. By the way, you can buy your own lock in one of the shops at the foot of the mountains. There are plenty of shops like this around here. There are hotels and restaurants, chic and cheap. The days of the Taoists who lived in bamboo huts and sought the elixir of immortality are long gone.

Author: Afonkin S.Yu.

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