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PERSONAL TRANSPORT: GROUND, WATER, AIR
Dinghy Moth. Personal transport
Directory / Personal transport: land, water, air The international-class ultralight dinghy "Moth" - "Moth" (Fig. 1, 2) is simple in design, technologically advanced in construction and has all the most important qualities of sports courts - fast, maneuverable and sensitive to control. All this allows us to recommend it as the first sports sailboat to those who dream of reaching Olympic heights in yachting. "Moth" according to the generally accepted terminology is a Bermuda cat, that is, a dinghy armed with one sail - a mainsail. With careful manufacture in compliance with the culture of weight, the mass of the sailboat should not exceed 30 kg. Its body is cut out of a sheet of hardboard or waterproof plywood 4-5 mm thick with dimensions of 1800x3500 mm. It is also possible to join its elements from several sheets of smaller sizes (Fig. 5). The "moustache" connection will provide quite satisfactory strength if the workpiece is glued with epoxy resin and dried under pressure. The workpiece is drawn as shown in Figure 3, the marking lines are outlined with a felt-tip pen. Then the "excess" material is removed, and along the dotted line with a sharp knife (such as a shoemaker's knife), an incision is made approximately by a third of the thickness of the sheet. In order not to go deeper into the sheathing than required, it makes sense to fit a simple limiter on the knife blade or, in extreme cases, put a risk on the blade and control the depth of cut along it.
In the edges of the skin, which are to be joined to each other, it is necessary to drill holes Ø 2-3 mm - they will be required in order to subsequently sew the body using soft safety wire as a "thread". The pitch between the holes is 100 mm, they are located at a distance of 20 mm from the edge boundary (Fig. 6). Carefully bend the sheathing sheet along the notch lines and connect the body elements sequentially with soft wire twists. Cut out a transom board from 12-15 mm thick plywood (Fig. 7) and reinforce it in the hull with strips of fiberglass on epoxy glue. The stem bar is installed in the same way. The resulting semi-finished hull must be strengthened. Cut strips of fiberglass about 100 mm wide, impregnate them with epoxy glue and seal the internal joints. To ensure the rigidity and tightness of the body, 3-4 layers of fiberglass are sufficient. After the epoxy glue has cured, the twisted ends of the wire protruding from the outside are cut off and the joints are sealed with strips of fiberglass.
The next operation is the assembly of the centerboard well. It will require two sheets of plywood 5-6 mm thick and two wooden bars - their width, which determines the size of the well, is 40 mm. The elements of this assembly are fastened with screws and epoxy glue. The well is attached to the bottom of the case with the same strips of fiberglass and epoxy glue. After the resin has cured, a slot is cut in the bottom for the centerboard. Dinghy "Moth" has a so-called self-draining cockpit with a bottom located above the waterline, so water freely pours out of it through transom holes - scuppers. Thanks to this device, it is not difficult to raise the boat to an even keel, even if the cockpit is completely flooded with water. The bottom of the self-draining cockpit is cut from waterproof plywood 8-10 mm thick and fixed with fiberglass tapes and epoxy glue.
The deck of a dinghy is easiest to cut out of a whole sheet of hardboard or plywood, but you can also glue it together using the techniques described here. From the inside, the deck is reinforced with longitudinal curved rails (see Figure 2), their cross section is 10x20 mm. The opening of the cockpit should preferably be edged with a bent rail. Since it is difficult to bend a rail of a sufficiently large cross section, a simplified method can be used. Cut out several plywood strips (the cut should be across the grain) and stick them in succession to the edge of the cockpit, securing with small nails and temporary spacers. After the epoxy has cured, finish the edging with a planer, rasp and sandpaper. Having finished assembling the hull, cut in two reinforcing frames made of waterproof plywood 5 mm thick in the mast installation area. Fixation of frames - using strips of fiberglass and epoxy glue. Try to keep the forepeak (fore compartment) airtight, this will give the dinghy additional unsinkability. Another watertight bulkhead is located directly in front of the centerboard well. It can be cut out of XNUMXmm plywood and secured to the body using the standard method of fiberglass strips. To make a centerboard, pick up several pine or spruce boards 30 mm thick, joint them together and glue them together so that you get a blank with dimensions of 30x300x1000 mm. Reinforce the upper part of the centerboard with two cheeks made of 4 mm thick plywood, and cut the lower part so that the cross section resembles a biconvex symmetrical profile of an aircraft wing. Lighten the upper part of the part - cut a triangular hole in it, as shown in Figure 2. It remains to level the surface of the centerboard with epoxy putty and paste over with one layer of fiberglass, putty again, clean with sandpaper and paint with synthetic enamel. The manufacturing technology of the steering pen is identical to that described above. The only difference is that a sheet of plywood with a thickness of about 15 mm is used as a blank. Particular attention should be paid to the work on the mast (Fig. 9). Try to follow our recommendations punctually. First of all, pick up two boards about 6 m long (preferably spruce). Carefully inspect them and make sure that there are no knots, cracks or strands. Do not be upset if you do not have lumber of this length at your disposal - the workpiece can be glued together from several boards by connecting them "by the mustache" with epoxy glue. Just keep in mind that the "mustache" itself must be at least 350 mm. Plan the blanks in such a way that you get two bars with a section of 35x70 mm each. The next operation is the cutting of the lipase. It is carried out with semicircular chisels or a tongue-and-groove - a small planer with a piece of iron sharpened in the shape of the future groove. Treat the groove with sandpaper, and then carefully grind it. Pay attention to the fact that its cross section remains constant along the entire length of the mast. Glue the bars with epoxy resin, squeezing the mast blank along the entire length with clamps - this will require at least two dozen of them. During the curing of the resin, the workpiece must be placed strictly horizontally on identical tragus supports or simply on wooden blocks placed on a flat floor. Failure to follow this recommendation may result in the workpiece being irreparably bent and the work having to be started over. two dozen. During the curing of the resin, the workpiece must be placed strictly horizontally on identical tragus supports or simply on wooden blocks placed on a flat floor. Failure to follow this recommendation may result in the workpiece being irreparably bent and the work having to be started over. After the glue has cured, process the mast with a planer: the diameter at the base should be 65-70 mm, and at the top - about 40 mm. A carefully sanded part is covered twice with hot (preferably natural) drying oil, and then with two layers of oil varnish. Do not forget to subject the inner surface of the lipase to the same operations. A fitting is pressed onto the lower part of the mast - a piece of steel thin-walled pipe, and on the upper part - a top fitting with a pulley built into it under the main halyard. The mast is fixed on the dinghy with two pairs of shrouds and a headstay. All of them are made of steel cable Ø 4 mm. The ends of the cables are sealed in a thimble or in a soft copper tube. Use screw turnbuckles to tension the shrouds and stay. The boom is made in exactly the same way as the mast, only blanks for it are selected with a section of 20x50 mm and a length of 2400 mm. The final operations for the manufacture of the hull of the Moth dinghy are pasting the hull with one layer of fiberglass, leveling the surfaces with epoxy putty, sanding and painting with synthetic enamels. You can sew a sail from thin tent fabric, bologna or cushion teak. The front and lower leech of the sail are reinforced with a vegetable or nylon cable Ø 10-12 mm. Reinforcing scarves are sewn into the clew and tack corners of the sail from a material thicker than the fabric of the sail. The sail of the dinghy has through battens, for which purpose 50 mm wide battens are sewn through. Armor - of variable thickness - at the mast is about 5 mm, and on the opposite side - 3 mm. A transparent window made of lavsan film 0,1 mm thick is sewn between the first and second battens. That, in fact, is all. Launch your dinghy into the water and, after making sure that the hull is watertight, proceed to sea trials. Make the first exit in a light wind. When you get comfortable enough with the technique of steering a dinghy, it will show you all its advantages - speed and control - even in a fresh wind. According to the materials of the magazine "Praktik", GDR
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