Glider building. Drawing, description

MODELING
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Glider building. Tips for a modeler

Modeling

Before starting work, carefully study the drawing and description. Then prepare a tool: a small planer, a sharpened knife, pliers or pliers and a jigsaw with files. Of the materials you will need: pine slats, a small sheet of tinplate, drawing paper, a spool of white thread No. 10, plywood 1 mm and 3 mm thick, tissue or mica paper or lavsan and nitro glue (this can be enamel, AGO, supercement, etc. ).

For the leading edge of the wing, take pine slats 4x4 mm, for the rear 2,5x7 mm and for ribs 2,5x3 mm.

Heating over the tongue of the flame, give the ribs a profile shape. To make a V angle, glue and then thread two strips of tinplate 7 mm and 4 mm wide to the ends of the joining edges, as shown in the figure. In places where the ribs are glued to the edges, cut out the grooves with a knife. To better hold the ribs during gluing, they must be pressed to the edges with clothespins.

For the stabilizer, prepare 3x2 mm rails. Its design is clear from the figure.

Make a rectangular trapezoid keel with bases of 70 mm and 50 mm and a height of 70 mm from rails of the same section as the stabilizer. For rigidity, glue a reinforcing rail.

The nose of the fuselage is made of 3 mm thick plywood with a cutout for the ballast. In the toe, cut out several grooves for the handrail and drill a hole Ø 3 mm for a pine pin. It is needed in order to attach the wing to the fuselage. Glue the ballast chamber on the sides with 1 mm thick plywood, and drill a hole Ø 3 mm from above. At a distance of 80 mm from the nose of the fuselage, glue a small pad for the wing made of 1 mm thick plywood.

The tail boom is in the form of a rail 3 [9 mm thick, to which the nose is glued. On the same rail, a stabilizer and a keel are installed on top of the glue.

Airframe model designed by S. Baksheev (click to enlarge): 1 - toe, 2 - fuselage rail, 3 - pin, 4 - wing pad, 5 - wingtip, 6 - wing, 7 - wing rib, 8 - tail boom, 9 - keel, 10 - stabilizer, 11 - hook for hooking the handrail

You can cover the model with tissue or mica paper or lavsan. Apply glue to the edges and ribs, place paper on top and press it down with your fingers. Then glue a strip of paper in the middle. Covering with lavsan on BF-2 glue. Run a hot, but not hot iron over the finished joints.

It is necessary to adjust the model in quiet, calm weather. Pour shot or small pieces of lead into the Ø 3 mm hole in the nose of the fuselage so that the center of gravity moves under the wing. Try flying the glider. If he landed quickly (dived), then you need to remove a little cargo, but if, on the contrary, he soared up sharply (scrambled), and then sank steeply, you need to add lead. A well-adjusted model should fly 17-20 m when hand launched.

Now try to launch the glider from the rail. It can be a strong thread or fishing line up to 30 m long with a steel ring and a flag at the same end. The ring must be hooked into the groove on the nose of the fuselage. The one who tightens the rail must run against the wind, looking at the glider. Another with the model in hand runs a few meters, making sure that the rail is taut, and releases it. The model will slowly rise up. As soon as the glider "climbs" to the top point, you should loosen the rail, the ring will pop out of the groove (you can find out by the flag), and the model will start free gliding.

Author: S.Baksheev

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