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BUILDER, HOUSEHOLDER
Bungalow. Tips for the home master
Directory / Builder, home master Is it easy to build a house? Anyone who has ever encountered this problem at least once will say: it is not easy. And of course, it will be right if we are talking about a house with several floors, with basements, a garage, terraces, bay windows, etc. But let's not talk about a big house - you won't build it without the help of craftsmen. Let's estimate our possibilities in building a small bungalow type. Many people need such a house, and you can hand it over to yourself on a turnkey basis quite quickly with good organization and the help of relatives and friends, moreover, using minimal equipment. The option (Fig. 1), which we will consider, offers the best solution for a minimum building area of about 27 m2. With careful execution, it will become quite comfortable housing and at the same time it will be quite beautiful and modern. Foundation construction At the beginning of work, it is necessary to mark the exact dimensions of the building on the site, that is, determine all the corners and construction lines of the bungalow. In our case, we are looking for a rectangle with sides of 5,80x4,65 m. We denote its perimeter by pegs driven in at the corners, between which a rope is stretched. A right angle will turn out if we measure 3 and 4 m on the legs, and 5 m along the hypotenuse. Now it's time to start digging a recess for the foundation. First of all, the top layer of soil is removed. This land, rich in humus, is rational to use in the garden. If the site has a flat surface, then in general terms the digging is finished; and when working on a slope, it will have to be continued until you level the area measuring 5 by 6 m. It's time for the foundation itself. When the site is relatively flat, and the solid ground is not deep, it is more appropriate to lay out a reinforced concrete pad. If the site has a slope, it is more reasonable to lay the concrete in transverse strips, with an increase in height; such strips can be lined with stone.
With fragile walls of the site, wooden formwork is used for the foundation; it is not needed in dense soil. Consumption of cement - from 200 to 250 kg per 1 m3 of the finished solution. When stones (rubber concrete) are added to it, the amount of cement required is reduced, and the work is accelerated. The stone base is made as follows: we lay large flat stones, and fill the gaps tightly with cement mortar. Having completed the construction of the foundation of the bungalow, it is necessary to wait a few days until it becomes possible to remove the formwork. If the house will be used only for household needs, thermal insulation is not needed, but it is necessary for a residential building. In the first case, the foundation is simpler: it is a layer of concrete with a light filler (perlite, expanded clay) 10-15 cm thick, which is laid on a rubble concrete pad; a waterproofing layer of two sheets of roofing material, interconnected by hot bitumen, is laid on it using cement grease. Assembling the frame From this moment we can start building the house - first the frame, then the walls and ceiling, and finally the roof. The frame of the bungalow is metal, assembled from pipes or profiles. The connection of its parts is best done by welding, although bolted (remember metal garages) with careful execution and reinforcement of corners with additional scarves is not forbidden. You should not neglect the "wooden" option. The strongest frame of the house is assembled from six metal columns that support the roof; four of them are load-bearing for the walls of the bungalow. The columns are welded to the metal strips previously laid in the base, concreted "with a mustache" in the foundation. After that, along the contour of the walls, we lay a metal corner on the plate. We cut the ends at an angle of 45 ° and weld with the racks. We repeat the same operation with the upper profile, which is also attached to the columns. Another set of the same corners creates a frame for the ceiling. Before you start hanging the walls, it is advisable to cover the metal parts with anti-corrosion mastics or red lead. The walls of the house in our case will not be load-bearing. Therefore, any available material that has good thermal insulation qualities and is easy to process can be suitable for sheathing the sides of the house. For better protection of the premises of the house from the cold, porous materials in the form of plates are suitable. In terms of strength and moisture resistance, fiberglass sheets would be optimal for external wall cladding; for the interior - dry plaster. The latter can be painted or wallpapered. For internal surfaces, hardboard and plywood are also suitable. Asbestos cement boards are suitable for both exterior and interior walls and ceilings, Wall mounting Usually, two methods of mounting wall elements and decorating the "box" of the bungalow are used. The first way is to prefabricate "sandwich" panels with a length of 2,8 m and 3 m (their width will depend on the format of the covering sheet). The inner layer can form a gutter, into which the load-bearing wooden beam will then lie. Such beams will become the main fastening elements of the parts of the walls with the frame.
The cladding can also be produced using the "layered installation" method. Wooden beams are attached to metal profiles at a distance of 0,8 m from each other, and sheet planes are mounted on them in the indicated way (using screws). The filler is glued to the latter and, finally, the outer planes are nailed. The beams must be of the same size, determined by the thickness of the filler. In our case, this layer has a thickness of 4 cm, for greater wall strength it is increased to 6 cm. The ceiling is made using the same methods. Window and door frames for thin walls are most suitable modern, double. They easily fit into the openings between the bars and are attached to them. A little tip: to avoid unnecessary gaps, mount the appropriate boxes directly when assembling the groan, without leaving this work "for later". And a cold roof can be warm We just have to install the roof. In the proposed version, a solution called "cold roof" is chosen. Such a roof is somewhat raised above the ceiling, which itself provides thermal insulation, and a light roofing material is placed on top for waterproofing. This method has a number of advantages, especially in summer; The direct rays of the sun heat only the roof. It is also important that, if necessary, the roof is easy to change. The basis of the roof structure is a metal frame made of standard profiles, with an increase in the roof ridge by 30-40 cm and the output of pitched ribs beyond the columns by 60-70 cm. The latter are fastened with spacers and longitudinal profiles that form the front and rear canopies. The number of ribs depends on the material of the roof: sheet iron, slate, corrugated plastic. The fixing of the roof must be strong enough. Do not forget to paint all metal parts with red lead and cover the beams with tin. There is no need for downpipes and gutters, since the building is not very high: the water will flow directly to the ground. Clean finish Finishing the flooring. The most versatile option is plastic or ceramic tiles, linoleum, which are laid both in the living room and on the terrace. A simple boardwalk is also good, but it needs to be "raised" by 70-80 mm.
If the house is on a steep slope, it is necessary to install a parapet on the terrace. To emphasize the style of the bungalow, decorative structures made of ordinary metal mesh, reinforced in a frame from the corner, will also help. To protect against corrosion, it is necessary to paint all metal parts with oil paint. Various aluminum profiles are often on sale, which can be successfully used to cover the external gaps between the panels; besides, the house looks better with them. The bungalow needs electricity. Wiring is carried out outside along the walls, in compliance with safety rules. Plumbing is also provided. Author: S.Atanasov
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