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ENCYCLOPEDIA OF RADIO ELECTRONICS AND ELECTRICAL ENGINEERING
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Car enthusiast tester. Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering

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Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering / Automobile. Electronic devices

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The article describes a probe designed to troubleshoot the electrical equipment of a car on the road. Despite its simplicity, the device provides a fairly large number of test functions.

Many motorists still use a warning lamp when troubleshooting electrical appliances in their car. To determine the causes of simple failures, such a "device" is quite enough. But sometimes, especially on the road, it is important not only to make sure that there is voltage on a particular node that causes doubts, but also that it works. Perhaps, this applies to the greatest extent to the nodes responsible for sparking, where a high-voltage discharge is more convincing than the glow of a control lamp.

The simple probe described below makes it easy to solve many of the problems that arise when repairing on the go. In addition to the traditional HL2 test lamp (see diagram), it contains a breaker simulator on relay K1, which allows you to check the sparking system in operation.

Car enthusiast's sampler

The probe circuit is shown in the initial position of all contact groups. On the left in the figure is a fragment of the scheme of the sparking unit of a car with an indication of the connection points of the probe.

Connect the probe with the car ignition key off. After turning on the ignition, the HL2 lamp should flash. In the absence of its glow, check the reliability of connecting the probe clamps, and, if necessary, the entire circuit to the positive terminal of the ignition coil T1.

If the HL2 lamp is on, but HL1 is not, then this most likely means that the breaker contacts are in the open state (or the wire from the breaker to the common point "K" of the ignition coil is broken - it needs to be restored). Since the lamp HL1 does not shine, you can be sure that the capacitor C1 of the breaker SF1 on the case is not "broken". It remains to check it for a break.

To do this, pull out the central high-voltage wire from the cover of the distributor breaker and fix it on the car so that a gap of 10 ... 15 mm is formed between the end of the wire and the body. The switch SA1 of the probe is switched to the lower position according to the diagram, while the relay K1 goes into buzzer mode and spark discharges can be seen (and heard) between the end of the high-voltage wire and the case.

If there are no sparks and they appear only when the gap is reduced to 5 mm, it should be assumed that either the capacitor C1 is broken, or there is no contact between its output and the output "K" of the ignition coil. You can verify this by closing the contacts of the switch SA2 of the probe, which connect the capacitor C1 to the circuit of the same capacity as the capacitor C1 of the breaker. The appearance of full-fledged sparks indicates a malfunction of the breaker capacitor.

After making sure that the ignition coil and the breaker capacitor are in good condition, set the switches SA1 and SA2 to their original position. Remove the distributor cover, and close the breaker contacts with a screwdriver. With serviceable breaker parts and connecting circuits, the HL1 lamp should turn on.

Recall that the test procedure described above corresponds to the open state of the contacts SF1 of the breaker. In the event that the breaker contacts are closed, both probe lamps will turn on after the ignition is turned on. It is enough to place a thin dielectric plate between the contacts, at least a piece of dry paper, and you can check as described above.

Attention! Do not forget to remove the insulating gasket from the gap after checking the ignition system.

If the breaker contacts are closed and the HL1 lamp does not light, this means that they need to be cleaned.

The probe is mounted in a plastic box measuring 90x60x40 mm (approximately). At the ends of the three flexible leads, crocodile clips with rigid springs are installed. Lead length - 150 mm.

Relay - any 12 V automotive relay (see V. Bannikov's article "Small-sized automotive electromagnetic relays" in Radio, 1994, No. 9, p. 42 and No. 10, p. 41). Capacitor - automotive or any other capacitance of 0,22 microfarads for a voltage of 600 V. Lamps - automotive with a power of not more than 4 watts.

Switches - any toggle switches or PD-1. Diode VD1 - any of the D226 or KD105 series.

The probe can help out on the road if the breaker capacitor fails - just connect the probe with two conductors to the "K" point and the case and close the SA2 contacts (it is better to remove one of the lamps from the cartridge). If, however, relay K1 is switched to the buzzer mode, the car's ignition system will become multi-spark, which will make it easier to start the engine in the cold season.

Author: A. Prugger, Barnaul

See other articles Section Automobile. Electronic devices.

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