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Meshcher. Nature miracle

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This land of dense forests and mysterious lakes is perhaps the least affected by civilization of all the Central Russian lands, it has preserved its appearance better than others since the times of Ancient Russia, and therefore is the closest and dearest to the Russian heart.

Here you will not find flashy colors, artsy rocks and some out of the ordinary natural phenomena. No, Meshchera - a huge wooded lowland between the Klyazma and the Oka - is rich only in what, it would seem, cannot surprise a Russian: mast pine forests, floodplain meadows, the aroma of herbs and needles, the silence and clear water of small and large lakes, the rustle of coastal reeds in the morning mist and the voice of the cuckoo resounding over the sleepy forest.

And yet, once having visited these parts, the traveler will definitely come back here again and again - such is the attractive power of these landscapes. Perhaps the fact is that one of the last islands of that same "great belt of coniferous forests" that stretched in the old days across the entire Russian Plain from the foothills of the Carpathians to the Kama region has been preserved here. It was here that more than a thousand years ago the formation of the Russian nation took place, here is its cradle. (The steppes and the Russian North were developed later.)

And the memory of the heart, the voice of the ancestors in the blood gives rise to an inexplicable for a foreigner attraction of the soul - the desire to once again merge with this nature, breathe in its wind, smelling of warm pine bark, admire the charm of a dewy meadow with brown humps of haystacks, listen to the ringing of grasshoppers and the singing of a lark overhead ...

Meshchera
Meshchera

One of the attractive properties of Meshchera is its few people. Located very close to the huge metropolitan agglomeration (you can get to the Meshchera outskirts in an hour and a half from Moscow by train), this forest side is still sparsely populated and not plentiful. From village to village - half a day, or even a day on foot. (And there may not be another - wheeled -, especially in muddy conditions.) In the depths of Meshchera, you can wander along forest paths or swim along rivers and canals for three or four days without meeting human habitation. Only occasionally will you come across a forester's hut or a fishing hut by a lake or in a cozy clearing in the heart of a resinous pine tract.

To the north of the Klyazma (once large and navigable), the Vladimir Opol'e sprawled, and to the south of the wide and fast Oka, Ryazan arable lands stretched on fertile chernozems - all long-explored and inhabited Russian lands. And between them, from the small rivers of Drezda and Pekhorka to Murom itself, lies an untouched corner of virgin thickets and swamps, on whose infertile and damp soils it was not easy for farmers to take root.

So the Meshcherskaya side remained underdeveloped and sparsely populated. Her dashing Tatar raids passed, industry was not affected, trade routes did not run along it - only hunting trails, and rivers led into the heart of the forest wilderness. And to this day, you rarely see asphalt in the Meshchera region. Only by windbreak clearings and water - by kayak - can one get, say, to the quiet rivers Poli and Buzha, which is next to the mysterious lake Isihra, to the necklace of small blue beads-lakes lost in the wilderness with bewitching names: Svetets, Krugley and Olenye .. .

Expanse in Meshchera for moose and wild boars, hares and foxes. It happens that wolves approach the villages in winter, with their howling instilling fear in the area.

The Meshchera rivers have some especially warm, native, although often incomprehensible to us, ancient names: Fields, Klyazma, Yalma, Voymega Pra, Solotcha ...

In the spring, into the hollow water, they spread widely through the surrounding forests, and sometimes the boat sails for hours between the trees until it meets an island-hill overgrown with pines, where there is a place for a halt. And the hares who have found salvation here from the flood timidly huddle away from you to the far end of the island, and curious hedgehogs, in twos and threes, snoop around the fire, rustling with last year's leaves. And when the water subsides, you will sometimes meet on the dry shore the motionless, mighty carcass of a wild boar and you will sigh sympathetically: you didn’t swim, poor fellow ...

Whoever has visited these places will forever keep them in memory. And one of these travelers who fell ill with Meshchera, the writer Paustovsky, wrote his own, perhaps best book, Meshchorskaya Side, about her. I can't resist quoting a few lines from this marvelous story:

"... On the banks of these rivers, water rats live in deep holes. There are rats completely gray from old age. If you quietly follow the hole, you can see how the rat catches fish. It crawls out of the hole, dives very deep and swims up with a terrible noise The rat holds a silver fish in its mouth and swims with it to the shore.When the fish is larger than the rat, the struggle lasts a long time, and the rat crawls out onto the shore tired, with eyes red with anger.

Meshchora is a remnant of the forest ocean in the very center of the European part of our country. The forests here are majestic, like cathedrals. Even an old professor, not at all inclined to poetry, wrote the following words in a study about the Meshchora region: "Here, in the mighty pine forests, it is so light that a bird flying hundreds of steps deep can be seen."

In the summer you walk along dry pine forests, like on a soft, expensive carpet - for many kilometers the earth is covered with dry moss.

Flocks of birds with a whistle and a slight noise scatter to the sides. When the wind - forests rustle. The rumble goes over the peaks like waves.

In addition to pine forests, there are forests of spruce, birch and rare patches of broad-leaved - from lindens, elms, oaks.

There are almost no roads in the oak copses. They are dangerous because of the ants. On a hot day, it is almost impossible to pass through an oak thicket: in a minute, the whole body, from heels to head, will be covered with angry red ants with strong jaws. Harmless ant-bears roam here. They pick open old stumps and lick ant eggs.

The path in the forests is kilometers of silence, calmness. This is mushroom prel, the careful fluttering of birds. These are sticky oils covered with needles, tough grass, cold porcini mushrooms, wild strawberries, purple bells in the clearings, trembling of aspen leaves, slanting sunbeams between the pines, and then forest twilight, when dampness begins to pull from the mosses, chill and light up in the grass tiny fireflies. When below, at the foot of the pines, it becomes completely dark, although the tops of the trees are still gilded by a glowing purple sunset, bats begin to fly silently and some incomprehensible ringing is heard in the forest.

And at night you will come across a lake that seems like a black mirror. The night full of stars looks into its dark water. In Meshchore, all lakes have water of different colors. For most it is black, for others it is yellow, for others it is gray, for the fourth it is slightly bluish. This is explained by the fact that at the bottom of the lakes there is a multi-meter thick layer of peat. The older the peat, the darker the water..."

Probably the most Russian of our poets came out of these lands - Sergei Yesenin, who sang in his poems "Ryazan expanses, straw sadness" ... Here once stood a modest churchyard Old Yegoriy, which gave rise to the modern town of Yegoryevsk, they rise here now the mossy walls and temples of the Solotchinsky Monastery and the eastern minarets and mosques of Kasimov, unexpected in the center of Russia - the capitals of the Kasimov Tatars, and along the banks of the narrow winding river Gus, the factory villages of Gus-Khrustalny and Gus-Zhelezny live with their old craft.

But all the man-made sights of Meshchera huddle more to its outskirts, and the main part of this reserved region is still, like a thousand and five hundred years ago, a country of fearless birds and animals, a miraculously surviving island of Central Russian nature, which will give us the joy of meeting for a long time to come. with such a native, so necessary world for us - the world of forest and stream, lake and meadow, quiet thoughtful river and spacious sky above our heads...

Author: B.Wagner

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